![]() Indoor and outdoor camera/ impermeable IP65ĭata sheet Power Charger DC5V/1.5A (not included) Battery Recargable y no extraíble Li-ion de DC5V / 5200 mAh Duración estimada 6 meses (10 segundos de vídeo por día) Tiempo de carga 10 horas Rechargeable and non-removable Li-ion of DC5V / 5200 mAhĮstimated duration 6 months (10 seconds of video per day) Real PIR sensor, detection activates video from camera Two-Way Audio, Built-in Microphone and Speaker, Siren Intelligent white LED for deterrence (flash) or courtesy (fixed) on detection VicoHome and Cloud Apps / Alexa Compatible. ![]() ![]() Deterrent light / Lithium battery 5200 mAh.Intelligent Cloud Detection / PIR Sensor.IP camera 2Mpx VicoHome Wifi battery powered.Intelligent detection of people, vehicles, pets and packages in the cloud (subscription-based).Lithium battery 5200 mAh (duration 6 months). ![]() Pics.the battery banks are to the right, and the dude looking left is staring at the regulators doing their thing. I plugged a room heater into a remote power switch, and wrote a script to turn it on when high voltage was detected. So there we are on a super cold day with lots of sun, producing more than the regulators could handle. The AZ sun is still brutal in winter, and cold panels are super efficient. The site is solar powered, and it was over voltage. *I was put on a helicopter and sent to a mountain-top where equipment was randomly shutting down. If you don't have a regulator, then you will seriously shorten the life of the battery, and literally blow it up if the panel is too big. If you have 8 hours of sun and need 60wH.Īs long as you have a solar regulator, the panel can be as big as you want* without any issues. So basically you take your 24 hour consumption of 60wH, figure out how many hours of full sun you have, and do the math. The panel needs to produce enough each day to run the camera for 24 hours. I'd recommend an alarm battery though, and a 12v 7aH battery is pretty standard and cheap (<$20). With a 12v battery that would be 5 amp-hours, which is half or a third of the typical capacity of a motorcycle battery. So that means that to run a full 24 hours, a battery would have to supply 60 watt-hours. Right now my switch says the M5014 is using 2.5 watts. For that you have see how much it uses, and multiply it by hours. Do you need it? How dark is that area? You may even need more than what is built into the camera.īasically you need to supply the camera with its ongoing need (easy, any battery really) and also with enough for the time it will be dark. My guess is the IR uses more power than the camera itself. ![]() Camera current will vary by model, and whether it has IR illumination. Some cameras have a USB power input.Ĭurrent has two components how much is available at any given time (amps or watts), and how much is used over time (amp-hours or watt-hours). How to make the physical connections is up to you cut the existing cord, or use components or other matching connectors. I have run a 12v camera from a motorcycle battery and a Harbor Freight solar panel (along with a directional radio to reach about 2 miles to the access point). And since USB is 5v, that's easy to support also just with more parts. You need to match voltage of course, so choosing a 12v camera makes life easy since that's a standard. The camera voltage varies by brand and model. Here's a post I just made on another forum that might help.ĭon't overthink it, if you can figure out basic motorcycle electricity you got this. All cameras can be battery/solar powered. ![]()
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